Few summer residents in our country can boast of good land on their plots. Chernozems are considered the most fertile soil, but there are only 8%. And most often gardeners and gardeners have to be content with clay. But it can be significantly improved and the soil fertility increased. Read more here BumperCropTimes.

In the garden

You’ve probably noticed how loose soil is in the forests. Why is that? Because it contains a lot of organic matter. Every autumn, leaves fall from trees, old trunks, branches fall, grass dries up, and all this gradually decays, enriching the soil with nutrients and making it literally airy. Nature has thought of everything, and we just need to follow its laws.

In general, it is ideal if your garden is soddy, that is, there is unburied soil in it, and grass grows under trees and shrubs. At least a lawn, but even better a meadow. If it is constantly mowed and left in the garden, then it will gradually rot, and the soil will eventually become the same as in the forest.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/Bh19LyuDFqM?rel=0&fmt=18&html5=1&showinfo=0But more often it happens that our gardens are dug up, because an inveterate summer resident always does not have enough space. And under the trees, you can grow shade-tolerant vegetables and flowers. How to increase soil fertility in this case? In fact, even in such a situation, there are options.

Place the weeds under the trees . We weed the garden all summer, and after weeding the unnecessary grass we throw away. But we don’t need it. And for trees and shrubs it is a real delicacy! Just collect it in a bucket, and then lay it out in the circles near the trunk. You can also send all the tops from the garden there.

You will notice the benefits very quickly. Firstly, the ground under the grass will stay moist longer – you will not need to water often. It will stop cracking from the heat. Weeds will stop growing under the grass mulch. Earthworms will start in the soil, which will riddle the soil with their moves, and through them air will flow to the roots. Gradually, the grass will begin to decompose, enriching the soil with organic matter – the plants will be able to receive the nutrients they need without additional feeding. And, of course, the structure of the soil will begin to change – it will become loose and fertile. Not right away, of course. It will take several years, but the result will please you.

However, there is a problem here. Spores of pathogens often hibernate in the leaves, and it is advised to rake and burn diseased leaves so as not to breed infection. But even here there is a way out – in late autumn, in late October – early November, sprinkle the fallen leaves with a strong solution of urea: 500 – 800 g per 10 liters of water. This solution will kill all pathogens. And do not be afraid that it will harm the plants – urea is very quickly washed out of the soil, by the spring it will no longer remain.

Mulch with sawdust… Bringing them under the trees, of course, will be wasteful – it will take too many of them. But under the bushes they belong. There are many benefits from them: in the summer they will restrain the growth of weeds, retain moisture in the ground, and gradually rotting, they will give nutrients to the plants and make the soil loose and fertile.

But there are nuances here.

Firstly, there are different sawdust, and it is necessary to clearly understand which ones to add what. Most garden shrubs (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) prefer neutral soils, so they can only be mulched with sawdust from deciduous trees. Coniferous sawdust acidifies the soil, but they are ideal for blueberries, lingonberries and cranberries – these crops just need acidic soil.

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